Kyoto in Autumn

Arriving in Kyoto in early November, the city was mid-transformation. The maple trees along the Philosopher's Path had gone the color of embers, and the crowds at Kiyomizu-dera moved in a slow, reverent shuffle.

I spent the first morning at Fushimi Inari before sunrise, walking under the vermillion torii gates with almost no one else around. By the time I reached the upper shrines the light was gold and the city below was a soft haze.

Evenings were for narrow Pontocho alleys and bowls of nabe. Kyoto rewards slowness — the temples matter less than the walk between them.